Thursday, February 16, 2012

First Look at JerryBuilt Burgers

There's a new player on the fiercely competitive Houston burger scene, and it's one that's worth checking out.  So we trekked down from the Woodlands to Holcombe Blvd. to find out more.

Called JerryBuilt Burgers, it's a new fast casual chain that does things a bit differently than other burger joints.  We were invited to for a preview dinner a couple of days before the grand opening, and here are our impressions.



First, the building.  Entering the lofty, airy space you'd never guess that the building was previously an abandoned WaMu bank that was never completed.



The interior designers did a remarkable job, and thoughtful touches are everywhere.  On one side of the dining room is a large mural featuring numerous Houston landmarks.


There is even a unique feature - an automated handwashing station in the dining room.  Alex, our 13-year-old, actually washed his hands without being cajoled, and he pronounced the automated machine "cool".  We concur.

But you don't read this blog for our architectural critiques - you're interested in the food.  Jerry Built isn't trying to be a health food restaurant, but there is a focus on quality ingredients.  They're proudly displayed on the wall, right beside the eye-catching mural.


From Niman Ranch beef and Buddy's Natural Chicken to organic veggies to Blue Bell ice cream and (be still my heart) Three Brothers Bakery buns, the focus on quality ingredients impressive.  It's part of an overall attention to detail that's rare anywhere in the restaurant business, much less in the fast casual sector.

All these quality ingredients are great, but unless they're combined with skill and care, they're wasted.  Fortunately, that wasn't a problem.  After we ordered at the counter from the well-trained staff, our order appeared very quickly, and attractively packaged.


Looking inside the well-designed recyclable packaging, we found a truly gorgeous burger, char-grilled over an open flame with just the right amount of melty cheese, and fresh, crunchy veggies.


The result is a stunningly attractive burger, artfully arranged between the freshly sliced Three Brothers Bakery bun.  We enjoyed this burger, but we're reserving final comments on its flavor until we can sample a few more examples.  Oh, the sacrifices we make for our readers.

We're looking forward to returning to JerryBuilt Burgers after they've opened to the public to sample more of their offerings, and to enjoy the stylish, comfortable environment they have created.  With the attention to detail that was already displayed, we predicted great success for this new, home-grown burger brand.

(We were happy to learn that they've already begun construction on a second location that's located in the Woodlands.  They're aiming for a March opening.)

JerryBuilt Homegrown Burgers | 3501 W Holcombe Blvd | Houston, TX 77025
713-664-2874 | jerrybuiltburgers.com


Friday, February 10, 2012

New Apps for Foodies - Trover, Fondu, Texas Monthly BBQ

A while back I declared the iPhone to be the ultimate gadget for foodies.  I still think this statement is true, and the explosion of interesting apps makes it even more useful and fun for foodies.  In the real world I'm a partner in a technology firm, and keeping on top of the state of the iOS app world is an important part of staying current in technology.  My iPhone 4s is with me all the time, helping me find great meals and recording the experience to be shared later via this blog, Twitter, and FaceBook.

Most of you know about popular apps such as Yelp, FourSquare  and OpenTable; they're a standard part of our iPhone app arsenal.  But there are a some new apps that any foodie should consider.

Trover is a photo-sharing app with a killer feature:  Location.  You can explore interesting images near you, or near any other location.  And as you'd expect, food images are becoming more and more popular.  You can also filter for images taken today or in the past week, letting you focus on the latest images taken nearby.

I find the location-based images to be incredibly useful, letting you focus on things nearby you can actually check out in person.  And you can easily share your photos on a variety of other social networks.

(Free.  iPhone and Android version available)


Fondu is a restaurant review app with an interesting twist: Micro reviews.  It's the Twitter of review sites, a socal network with reviews restricted to 175 characters, and establishments rated on a 1-4 "leaf" scale.  You can follow reviewers you like, and search for nearby reviews with a map.  Sharing your reviews via other popular social networks is quick and easy.

Fondu has launched recently, and doesn't yet have a strong presence in the Houston area.  This is a perfect chance for the discerning foodies who read this blog to have a strong voice and get the word about about the best places in the area.  And with the micro review format, it's quick and easy to share you opinions while they're still fresh in your mind.

(Free. iPhone only)


Texas Monthly BBQ - Texas Monthly is a fantastic resource to learn more about the State of Texas, and this app is their suggested way to find BBQ in your area.  It's a comprehensive list; you'll find both big chains and the mom-and-pop joints known mainly by locals.

You can browse nearby BBQ joints, view Texas Monthly's list of the best BBQ in the state, and read the buzz from your fellow BBQ hounds.  Registration on the Texas Monthly site is require to post your opinions.

(Free. iPhone only)

Have you discovered some must-have apps for foodies?  Let us know in the comments, and we'll check out as many as we can.

Monday, January 30, 2012

First Look at Uchi Houston

Lately Houston has been the recipient of some notable Austin imports.  On the moderate end, the insanely popular Torchy's Tacos opened their first Houston location to rave reports from diners.  Today we were fortunate enough to take a look at an even more exciting Austin import.

Uchi, the modern Japanese restaurant building a national reputation for its innovative takes on sushi and other Japanese dishes, has opened a Houston outpost.  Located in the old Felix Mexican Restaurant location on inner Westheimer, the team from Uchi has converted a revered house of Tex-Mex into a lovely and serene Japanese dining experience.  How does the innovative cuisine of chef Tyson Cole survive the trip down Highway 290?  We wanted to find out.

We were invited to sample several of their dishes at a recent media dinner, and while this isn't a formal review, we wanted to share our impressions.

Approaching the building, we noticed how the new building doesn't eradicate the old architecture of Felix's, but rather pays homage to it.  The iconic curved windows remain, and their shape is echoed in the striking new entryway.  The result is urban and modern, but with respect for the past, a theme that was echoed throughout the evening.


Entering the restaurant, we were startled at the transformation.  Gone was the Felix experience, and in its place was a stylishly rustic Japanese setting, with clever details everywhere we looked.  One of our favorites was a large communal table, handmade in Austin and lovingly assembled.


With this much attention and respect paid to the setting, we couldn't wait to sample Tyson Cole's food.  Before being served, we browsed the traditional preparation area, and took in the mouth-watering displays of fresh fish and other ingredients, all under the watchful eye of Uchi's kitchen staff.



Watching these masters wield their tako hiki and santoku was like watching surgeons at work.  The speed and precision evident in their work was remarkable.


For this media dinner, small plates were passed by the attentive but unobtrusive staff, who were happy to answer any questions.  Chef Cole circulated from time to time, delivering food himself and anxious to hear feedback from patrons.


First up was a cooked dish - bacon sen.  Consisting of grilled pork belly, green onion, fish caramel, and bonito flakes, the result was a very restrained take on pork belly.  Instead of the often overwhelming richness from this fatty cut of pork, the dish had a solid pork flavor, still rich but balanced by the sweetness of the caramel and the subtle crunch of the bonito flakes.


Next was our first bite of Chef Cole's sushi.  Called machi cure, it begins with smoked baby yellowtail, presented on a small plank of edible yucca crisp, asian pear, marcona almond, and accented with garlic brittle.  This dish was genius.  The essence of the sea brought forth by the impeccably fresh yellowtail was firm without being chewy, and offset by the crunch of the yucca and the subtle snap of the almond.  The flavors danced on the tongue - the rich tuna, the sharp garlic, the tang of the pear, the earthiness of the almond.  The result was spectacular, and speaks to Cole's ability to balance flavor and texture while not compromising on the jewel-like presentation.


Another highlight was the playfully named Jar Jar Duck.  Presented in a lever-sealed Mason jar, opening this clever package released a waft of rosemary-infused smoky duck essence.  Digging into the jar revealed thinly sliced sweet kumquats, pickled endives, thinly sliced bits of roast duck, and crunchy duck cracklins.  Again, the attention to detail is remarkable: The duck is layered so that the milder white meat is below the richer dark meat, so the heavy, flavorful juices marinate the breast meat.  This dish evokes the cleverness of Grant Achatz at his best while leaving behind the fussiness that turns food into performance art.  Again, it's about balance, and Tyson Cole pulls it off masterfully.

We sampled several other dishes that we thoroughly enjoyed, with interesting ingredients like flash-fried kale, toasted milk, and espelette, a mild French pepper not typically associated with Japanese cooking.  This medling of ingredients brings a distinctively modern feel to Cole's Japanese cuisine.  The respect for the past is evident, but the vision is through a distinctively modern lens.  We're excited about Uchi, and we look forward to seeing what other delights Tyson Cole and his talented staff have in store.

(Other views on the event, from Almost Veggie HoustonCultureMapDr. Ricky and Hank on Food.)

 Uchi | 904 Westheimer | Houston 77006 | 713-522-4808 | uchihouston.com

Uchi on Urbanspoon

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Win Dinner for Two at Chama Gaucha Brazilian Steakhouse


Want to win Dinner for Two at Chama Gaucha, the hot Brazilian steakhouse on Westheimer? Simply "Like" H-Town Chow Down on Facebook, and add a comment to the Chauma Gaucha post.

We're giving away dinner for two to five lucky winners. No purchase necessary. Terms and conditions apply.

You can follow this link to Facebook to get started.

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Top Ten Least Popular Family-Themed Restaurants

For our first post of 2012, we turn to contributing editor Chuck Pena (@cpenahouston on Twitter) for his Top Ten Least Popular Family-Themed Restaurants:

10. Chucked-Up-Cheeses
09. Dead Robin
08. Golden Colonic
07. Chili's
06. Substandard
05. Whattamaggot
04. South of the Drug War
03. Joe's Crab Affliction
02. The Fruitcake Factory

And the number one least popular family themed restaurant:

01. Taco Cadaver


We can assure you that no reviews of them are forthcoming.



(Apologies to David Letterman, and anyone who has good taste.)

Friday, December 30, 2011

Quick Take: Brisket and Pulled Pork from Corkscrew BBQ

We brought home brisket and pulled pork from Corkscrew BBQ tonight - first time I'd done carryout from them. Very well packaged, arrived in Indian Springs hot and moist. Loved that the pulled pork had its own vinegar-based sauce, a rarity in Texas. Brisket was superb as always.


Thursday, December 29, 2011

Whataburger introduces Spicy Ketchup

As Texans, we profess our love of Whataburger, the state's home-grown burger chain.  Founded in 1950 by Harmon Dobson in Corpus Christi, Whataburger is known for its very good burgers, its fantastic customization options, and last but not least, it's delicious Fancy Ketchup.

But 2012 is a time of change (just ask the Mayans) and in honor of the end of the Long Count (ok, not really) Whataburger is introducing its new Spicy Ketchup.  Taking the legendary sweet/savory combination of Fancy Ketchup one step further, Corpus Christi turns to the Valley to turn up the heat, adding real jalapeño pepper paste to their established formula.

We'll be waiting on January 2 to check out Spicy Ketchup for ourselves.  (On the fries.  Not on the burger.)  Watch this space for an update.  And if when you try it, let us know what you think.


Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Holiday Meals without the Work? Hubbell & Hudson's Holiday Catering

What's the best part about this time of year?  For us, it's a delicious holiday meal, enjoyed with family and friends.  Wonderful food, great conversation, more food, relaxation.  Well, relaxation for almost everyone.  Not so relaxing for the home chef whose hard work makes the great meal take place:  Creating a menu.  Compiling recipes.  Shopping for ingredients.  Preparation.  Hours of cooking.  Collapsing in exhaustion while everyone eats.  And the worst travesty of all:  Not enough time to watch football.

Being a big fan of both great food and not working too hard, we were wondering if it is possible to use that 21st century concept of outsourcing to allow everyone to enjoy a relaxing holiday meal... even the home chef.  A discussion about this very topic with a friend revealed two opinions:  He was sure that no "take out" meal could compare to homemade, and I opined that a professional chef working in a commercial kitchen could prepare a meal that was easily superior to what even an advanced home chef could create.

Always up to a challenge, our friends at Hubbell & Hudson generously offered to send over one of their popular holiday dinners to see how it measured up to homemade.  Since we're willing to make sacrifices and research this tasty quandry for our readers, we took 'em up on their offer and received two well-packed boxes filled with ready-to-heat components of a complete holiday meal for a big family.

Well packaged dishes

We opened the boxes, and found all of the courses expertly packed and in perfect condition.  We followed the dead simple heating instructions (also available on the website if you misplace the included paper... don't ask me how I know this.)  Once we were done, we spread them out and invited the assembled omnivores to dig in.

Hubbell & Hudson's Holiday Ho-Ka Turkey Dinner

First to be attacked were the side dishes.  A container of whipped sweet potatoes was pure in its simplicity - we detected nothing other than sweet potatoes in the dish.  I think this is a wise choice; you can complement it with caramel syrup and marshmallows if you want something extremely sweet, or with a simple bit of butter and nutmeg if you want something more savory.

Next up were the green beans.  The fresh, lightly cooked beans were topped with sliced almonds and gently seasoned, and the result was light and refreshing.  Our teenagers, not normally drawn to vegetables, made sure that we had no leftovers.

Green Beans that appealed to our teenagers.  Remarkable.

No turkey dinner is complete without dressing, and here we found the only misstep.  Hubbell & Hudson used sweet cornbread in its dressing, and we felt that the sweetness of the bread was slightly overpowering.  A more neutral cornbread recipe would have resulted in a dish skewed more toward the savory, and that would have made us happier.

The centerpiece of the meal was the whole roasted turkey.  A free-range, naturally brined Howard Kaufman Farms turkey is roasted in-house at Hubbel & Hudson after receiving a savory, herbal house rub.  The result is a delightfully juicy bird that has a rich, savory flavor throughout.  Dark meat was deliciously flavorful, and the white breast meat (often dry when you buy a turkey and prepare it at home) was moist, subtly herbal, and in short, delicious.

We can't eat turkey without cranberry sauce, and Hubbell's was remarkable.  Whole cranberries are seasoned with plenty of rosemary and a hint of orange, and the sauce was actually more of a relish - one that was fruity, complex, and utterly captivating.  We wouldn't hesitate to spread this on a cracker and enjoy it even without the turkey.

For dessert, two pies were included.  First up is the classic Texas Pecan Pie.  After sampling this pie, no one can call Hubbell & Hudson stingy with the pecans; the pie was chock full of huge pecan pieces, with only a tiny bit of the sweet syrupy binder that holds the pecans together.  The result is a pie rich in the flavor of roasted pecans, and not overpoweringly sweet.

Pecan Pie


Next is the Hubbell & Hudson pumpkin pie.  This rich, dense pie isn't your mother's pumpkin pie - the fresh pumpkin flavor is complemented by the complexity of significant spicy tones, most promiently ginger.  Picking up a slice I was surprised by its weight - I can't ever remember seeing a more lush pumpkin pie.

Trying to fight off the impending coma caused by consuming this epic meal, I have to conclude that my original opinion was confirmed: The pros at Hubbell & Hudson could create something that I could never hope to duplicate on my own.  It's going to be tough next year to hunt down all the ingredients, slave away over the hot stove for hours, and end up with a result that doesn't measure up to this meal.

On the other hand, I can always call Hubbell & Hudson next time.  That would leave more time for watching football...

Hubbell & Hudson | Catering Information | 281-203-5600

Saturday, December 3, 2011

Fine Tuning the Formula at Coal Burger

We're fans of Coal Burger, the Arizona-based burger chain from the Grimaldi's Pizza folks.  Their Woodlands Waterway location is the first store outside of Arizona, and we think they serve an excellent burger.

But we've heard reports of some less-than-spectacular burgers being served.  The culprit is overcooked beef.  But the mastermind behind Coal Burger, Chef Bradford Thompson, has devised a simple solution to the problem.

The original Coal Burger was architected around a quarter-pound patty.  The half-pound burger was simply two of these patties, stacked up.  The good news is that there is plenty of exposed surface to hold an aggressive char.  The downside is that the interior of the burger gets hot quickly, and unless the cooking is perfectly timed, all the juices evaporate in the intense heat of the coal-fired oven (over 1000 degrees.)  A juicy Coal Burger is a superlative burger, a dry one loses a good deal of its appeal.  So how do you keep the patty from drying out as it cooks and develops that wonderful char?

The solution is an elegantly simple one:  Enlarge the patty.  The petite quarter-pound patty is now a thicker third-pound patty, and the larger mass of beef holds up better to the intense heat, holding in the juices with aplomb.  Patrons preferring a larger burger now get their half-pound of beef in a single patty.

The new third-pound Coal Burger

After learning about this clever solution, we wanted to grab a table and sample the result.  This led to discovering the other big change at Coal Burger - table service in the evenings.  A hostess, plenty of waiters and tables dressed with silverware and cloth napkins contribute to the decidedly upscale atmosphere; the view overlooking the sparkling lights of Waterway Square completes the setting.

Table service at night, and a beautiful view

We found the idea of table service to be pretty unique for a burger joint, albeit a high-end one occupying prime real estate in the Woodlands.  Coal Burger's staff made it work well; waiters are friendly, service is good, and the result makes for a great date night experience.

So how was the burger?  In short, it's the bacon cheeseburger of backyard dreams, but now with a thicker, beefier, jucier patty.  High quality cheese (American for us.)  Thick cut, smoky bacon.  Fresh veggies.  And that's a win in my book.

We like the changes at Coal Burger, and applaud the attention of Chef Bradford and his staff to refining a great burger experience and making it even better.


Coal Burger on Urbanspoon

Friday, December 2, 2011

Why Burgers Look Great in Commercials

Have you ever wondered why the spectacularly lovely burger you see in a fast food commercial actually looks like a sad, dreary shadow of its buffed-up self when it is served to you?

Our friends at Snotr (we just link to 'em, we didn't name 'em) have an answer.

WARNING: Turn down the sound before you press play.  This video is LOUD.


Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Hubbell & Hudson's Wagyu Burger

One of this burger lover's saddest days of 2010 was the day that Tesar's Modern Steakhouse closed in the Woodlands.  Tesar's Magic burger had become the thing of local legend; to this day I've been searching for a burger that comes close to that remarkable creation.

But good things have followed for those involved with Tesar's.  Chef Jeromy Robison landed the exec spot at La Colombe d'Or's popular new CINQ restaurant, and has been on everyone's short list of talented young chefs.

The other member of the dynamic duo, Chef Austin Simmons, was recently promoted to Executive Chef at Hubbel & Hudson, the hot gourmet market and bistro in the Woodlands.  Austin and I talked burgers on numerous occasions at Tesar's, and I was excited to see how he'd influence the already excellent burgers at H & H.

So I was pleasantly surprised not only to learn of Chef Austin's promotion, but to be invited to sample some of his new dishes on the winter Hubbell & Hudson menu.  And I was hoping a burger would be one of the offerings.

After rolling out several new dishes (which will be written about soon) a burger appeared.

Wagyu Burger at Hubbell & Hudson
I smiled when I noticed that instead of one of H & H's excellent buns, Chef Austin had selected an English Muffin as the foundation for his burger.  The half-pound patty was hand-formed Wagyu beef, from an American breed of cattle that produces Kobe beef in Japan.  Instead of bacon, crispy prosciutto di Parma was artfully arranged.  Fresh arugula and a unique tomato remoulade were piled atop a sunny-side-up egg.  No ordinary condiments were to be found.  These prime ingredients do not result in a bargain burger - served with the excellent house cut double dip frites, the cost of the burger is $25, not an insubstantial sum.

(I hate to second-guess a chef, but I'm not an egg-on-a-burger guy.  When I mentioned this, the burger was whisked into the kitchen, and reemerged in short order without the egg.)

I bit into the burger, and it was a revelation.  Front and center was the lush, beefy flavor.  The wagyu had been expertly ground; so many times super premium beef doesn't stand up well to grinding, but in this case it had been handled expertly and cooked to a perfect medium rare.  The juicy ooze was in full force; this was a rare case where wagyu beef delivered fully on its promise.

The tang of the tomato chutney was a delicious counterpoint to the swaggeringly rich beefy flavor, and this is coming from someone who typically doesn't like tomatoes on a burger.  The smooth, almost sweet flavor of the cured prosciutto provided balance, and the subtle crunch added textural interest.

This could very well be the best burger I've ever tasted.

Chef Austin is still fine tuning the burger.  He's contemplating a version replacing the egg with one of Hubbell & Hudson's artisan cheeses.

I shudder to think about the difficulty in resisting the result.

Hubbell & Hudson Bistro | 24 Waterway Ave, Suite 125 | The Woodlands, Texas 77380
281-203-5641 | hubbellandhudson.com

Hubbell & Hudson Bistro on Urbanspoon

Monday, November 28, 2011

Great deal at El Real - for selected people

I just saw a very curious tweet from El Real Tex-Mex, the hot new Montrose-area restaurant:

@ElRealTexMex tweets:
"Come one, come all.  Montrosians eat half-priced with TDL @elrealtexmex for Montrose Mondays!"

While I applaud the idea of a great deal on a slow night, I'm more than a little put off by the exclusionary nature of the offer.  If you don't live in the right neighborhood, you don't get the deal.

To me, this smacks of the worst sort of price discrimination.  If you aren't fortunate enough to live in the right upscale neighborhood, you pay a higher price on Monday nights.

Folks who don't live in Montrose:  How do you feel about this sort of offer, where you're excluded because you live in the wrong zip code?

Tuesday, November 22, 2011

How to Carve a Thanksgiving Turkey

It's a nightmare scenario:

Family and friends gathered around the festive Thanksgiving table.  An assortment of dishes heaping with delicious side dishes.  The golden turkey appears atop its platter, steaming hot, filling the room with the rich aroma of Thanksgiving.

Then you get a cold chill up your spine as you are handed the carving tools, and asked to "Do the Honors".

It doesn't matter whether the meal was prepared at home, or whether you enlisted the help of a professional kitchen - once the bird is on your table, someone has to do the carving.

Fear not, loyal H-Town Chow Down fans.  We've brought you instructions on how to properly carve that ominous Thanksgiving turkey.  Special thanks to our friends at the Food Network who created this video.


Monday, November 21, 2011

Last Minute Ideas for a Great Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving is this week, and I'll bet that many of our readers have yet to finalize their plans for the traditional holiday meal.  While we're fans of a home-cooked extravaganza, we realize that busy schedules often make this impossible.  Heck, out here in the Woodlands, football playoffs have resulted in practice on Thanksgiving Day, further complicating plans.

Our solution?  Let a pro take care of the food.  We've complied a list of Houston-area spots that are on call to take the fuss out of Thanksgiving dinner, delivering great results without breaking the bank.

Hubbell & Hudson's Ho-Ka Roasted Turkey Dinner


Hubbell & Hudson

First up is Hubbell & Hudson, the Woodlands' own epicurean market and bistro.  Under new executive chef Austin Simmons, Hubbel & Hudson is offering a full slate of Holiday offerings.  Chef Austin is particularly proud of the Ho-Ka House Roasted Turkey Dinner, featuring a free-range, all-natural brined turkey, madeira giblet gravy, housemade side dishes and one of the superb Hubbell & Hudson pies to top it off.  $199, feeds six to eight.  281-203-5600

HEB Central Market

Folks inside the loop might scoff at driving to the Woodlands, so we contacted HEB Central Market to peruse their offerings.  We were impressed by their Naturally Gluten-Free Turkey Dinner, featuring a free-range oven-roasted turkey, gluten-free gravy, rustic Italian gluten-free rolls, and traditional sides, all gluten free.  $140, feeds six to eight.  713-386-1700

Kenny & Ziggy's

A New York-style deli isn't an obvious choice for Thanksgiving, but Ziggy Gruber's crew has put together a nice lineup of traditional and unexpected dishes that will make your meal memorable.  Their 20 lb whole roasted turkey, chestnut stuffing, and homemade gravy is the traditionalist's choice, but we suggest moving outside the expected with the superb glazed corn beef.  $ Prices vary.  713-871-8883


Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Corkscrew BBQ - A BBQ Truck in The Woodlands ?!?

As the Woodlands has grown, we've seen explosive growth in the local restaurant market.  Newcomers open every month, anxious to tap into the thriving economy by feeding hungry residents.  Some succeed. Some fail.  But all help the dining scene change and evolve into something more interesting.

Once thing we've bemoaned repeatedly is the lack of good BBQ in the Woodlands.  While there are a smattering of BBQ joints, we've yet to run across a place that serves the kind of 'Q that we crave.  Heck, most of the time when we're in the mood for BBQ, we hike down I-45 to Louetta and give Rudy's, the San Antonio import, our business.

So we were excited to hear from one of our Twitter followers about a new BBQ place opening up off Sawdust road.  Called Corkscrew BBQ, it is an oversized BBQ truck/trailer semi-permanently located on Budde road, half a block south of Sawdust.  Painted black with a bright pink roof, you won't miss the trailer when you drive down Budde Road, perhaps on the way to an Orwall little league game.

The Corkscrew BBQ Truck

Corkscrew BBQ is new to the Woodlands, but the people behind it are not new to BBQ.  Will and Nichole Buckman are the owners, and they have operated a successful catering business on the north side for years.  Corkscrew BBQ is the result of their desire to serve a bigger market on a daily basis, applying their hard-won expertise in the catering field.

So how is the BBQ?  As every real Texan knows, BBQ is all about slow-cooking meat with plenty of honest-to-Robb wood smoke.  Corkscrew's wood of choice is oak, and they use plenty of it.

Native Texas Oak is the source of fire and smoke in Corkscrew BBQ's pit

Unlike many urban BBQ places, Corkscrew's pit runs exclusively on wood - there's no gas involved at all.  Oak was selected because it's a fairly hot-burning wood, and Will Buckman prefers not to overpower the flavor of the meat with the flavor of smoke, and a hotter fire shifts the balance in favor of the meat flavor.

The pit itself is a good-sized rotary shelf unit, with individual meats wrapped in foil to retain their juices.

The pit at Corkscrew BBQ

Corkscrew smokes the traditional brisket, ribs and sausage, and also plans to go beyond the standards with occasional daily specials.  On our first visit, we were in a bit of a hurry, and sampled only the chopped beef sandwich.

Chopped Beef at Corkscrew BBQ

Chopped beef can tell you a lot about the philosophy of a BBQ joint.  Some places use the least desirable scraps, hiding the poor quality behind too much strong sauce.  Corkscrew's approach is one we prefer: Freshly chopped brisket, mixed with just enough sauce, topped with veggies.  Crunchy sliced onions and pickles (and jalapeños, if you'd like) complete the sandwich, and we liked the not-overly-sweet tang of the housemade sauce.

We returned two days later, and talked with Will Buckman about how their first weekend went.  They were very busy - apparently we weren't the only ones in the Woodlands who were hungry for a new BBQ spot.  Will insisted that we try his brisket, and hauled out a slab.

Brisket at Corkscrew BBQ
The brisket had a beautiful dark bark, and the grit of the house rub was plainly visible.  A cut revealed a quarter-inch smoke ring in a nice, dark pink.

He sliced off a sample (an outside cut from the fatty end) and we dug in.  The smoky flavor was subtle, but certainly present.  We've had BBQ where the smoke totally overpowered the flavor of the beef, but that wasn't a problem at Corkscrew.  The 'Q was slightly drier than we prefer, but a dash of the tangy housemade sauce addressed that problem, and added a nice bite to the flavor.

Brisket at Corkscrew BBQ

Bottom line:  Corkscrew's brisket is easily among the best to be had in the Woodlands.

Will had an enigmatic smile on his face, and handed me a small container.  "It's our cobbler.  Today's is apple."  Never being one to insult a man with a hot pit and sharp knives, I opened the container and sampled the warm cobbler.

Apple Cobbler at Corkscrew BBQ

Corkscrew's cobbler is superb.  A soft, flaky, buttery crust balanced with the zest of the spicy apples, sweet but not cloyingly so.  We're anxious to return and sample the other cobblers, including peach and seasonal berries.

The Woodlands has been in need of a serious BBQ joint ever since I've moved here, and Corkscrew BBQ is already filling that void.  Between the tasty brisket and superb cobbler, we'll be back, and often.  If you love BBQ, you will, too.

Corkscrew BBQ | Budde Road just south of Sawdust | The Woodlands, TX 77380
832-592-1184 | www.CorkscrewBBQ.com | Twitter: @CorkscrewBBQ

Corkscrew BBQ on Urbanspoon